TRIP TO POKHARA

Next day, on the 13^th July 2011, we left for Pokhara. We were very happy to be with family after nearly one year. We visited my relatives in Bhurjungkhola and others. During my stay in Pokhara, I borrowed scoty from my sister which made us easy for my trips. For one day, we went to Kande to taste sukuti (dry meat) of he-goat / changra (he-goat reared at high altitudes). Kande is famous for khasi ko sukuti. Next day one of Sharmila’s friend from Norway, Heidi was visiting Pokhara so, we decided to join them and show some places around Pokhara. She was travelling with one of her colleagues Tran Suppipat and with Bimal ji’s family. I had not met Bimal ji before but we talked couple of times on phone when i was in Bergen. During that time, Bimal ji was in Trondheim for his Masters in Natural Resource Management from NTNU. We meet at Lakeside where they were living. After half an hour, we left for Mahendra gufa (cave). On the way back we came to our home. On the way to Bagar, we had lunch in a restaurant in K.I. Singhpool. They were interested to taste MO:MO:. After lunch, I suggested Bimal ji to take Heidi and Tran to Kande / Lumle. We drive till Hemja for them. At the evening, we decided to meet at Mahendrapool for dinner. We went to Thankali Bhanchha Ghar (Restaurant famous for typical Nepali food). Heidi and her friend were leaving for Kathmandu the next day with Bimal ji who have to attend a meeting. We decided to meet at Kathmandu again before Heidi and her friend leave for Bangkok. We returned back to Kathmandu on 20^th July 2011. We bought couple of things to take to Norway specially the spices which were difficult to find in the markets in Norway. We left for Norway on 23^rd July 2011 and arrived Trondheim via Quatar on 24^th July 2011.

KATRA, INDIA TO MAHENDRANAGAR TO KATHMANDU, NEPAL

On 10^th July 2011, we started trip from Baishnodevi temple to back to Mahendranagar. We planned to reach Haridwar. Whole day, Banbarilal kept on driving.

On the way we stopped at Hariyana for food. Sharmila was interested to taste some typical Indian food. We went to one restaurant. Banbarilal went to ask about foods first. He them come with smiling that there are four Nepalese boys working. He told us that he said to the boys that he brought some friends from Nepal. We talked to the boys. They were from mid and far western Nepal. It is very common practice to go to India for work from Nepal.

We tasted tasty and spicy Indian foods. When I went to the cash counter to pay bills, the restaurant owner asked me are you from Nepal? I said, yes I am. I asked him, how you know? He said, one of the boys told him that there are Nepalese guests from Nepal. The boys were working hard from 6:00 AM to later10:00 PM but get nominal salary. Two of them left home during civil war in Nepal because the Maoists forced him to join their army but he fused and came to India where other two came because of poor financial condition. They could not continue their study and have to go to India in search of jobs to feed their parents. I had fellow feeling to those Nepalese boys. I gave 50 Indian rupees to each of them as a pocket money. First they refused but later they kept it. When we sat in the jeep they were looking towards us until we hide in the crowd.

We reached Saharanpur at about 11:15 PM and decided to have rest there. It was about one more hour drive to reach to Haridwar but we were so, tired as we had not slept last night too. We decided to stop at Saharanpur. Finally we found a hotel for one night.
Next day, 11^th July 2011, we left for Haridwar at 07:00 AM. We were little bit fresh after having good sleep. On the way we stopped at Baba Ramdev’s Asharam where we had breakfast. After that we reached Haridwar temple. We decided not to go to the main temple as it will be time consuming because we plan to reach Mahendanagar today. So, we had a distance bath in a holly river and filled one bottle with water from the river. This water is regarded as the holiest in Nepal. People have a belief that when they keep this water in their homes, they get rid from problems. Large number of Nepalese use to visit this area and this is one of the main destinations (Dham) for Hindu pilgrims which they have to visit before they die. We had bath in holly river and distance worship to the goddess. Sharmila had Mehandi in her hand. It was already 11:15 AM, and then we started our trip. Nearly at 18:30 we reached Nepal-India boarder. The boarder use to open from 18:00 to 19:00. So, it was crowded with people passing through this boarded towards both the countries.
People have to walk for nearly half an hour to cross the boarder until and unless you are travelling with private car. Those people who walk get much trouble by the army from India and by police in Nepal. Especially in Indian boarder side, the Indian army uses to ask money from them and poor workers have to pay as much as they demand. But we who are using a private vehicle from India were never asked for money. One Indian army came to search our jeep and asked where we have been. We told we are from Kashmir. He said oh Kashmir, have you been to Gulmarg? I said yes. He said he is from Gulmarg. I told oh Gulmarg is the most beautiful place. He felt very happy to hear that.

Finally we reached Mahendranagar at 20:05. On the way back I told uncle to book ticket for Dhangadi – Kathamndu for tomorrow and luckily he found cheap tickets for us.

I made payment to Banbarilal. He is thankful for wonderful driving and guiding us during the trip about what we have to do and what we don’t especially when we are going to have food. He is very good driver I saw until now.

We left for Kathmandu on 12^th July 2011. Although, I could not do what I targeted, I have a nice trip to Kashmir. It became more ritual tour rather than sampling.

KASHMIR TO KATRA, JAMMU: TRIP TO VAISHNODEVI TEMPLE

As we could not collect plant samples, I decided to return back to Mahendranagar as soon as possible. So, I had meeting with Prof. Reshi and Mr. Pervaiz about sampling. They convinced me that they will send samples as soon as possible.

We left Kashmir early in the morning at 4:30 AM on 9^th July 2011. On the way back, Banbarilal wanted to visit VaishnoDevi temple. Sharmila and I were also interested to visit that temple because it is one of the most popular Hindu temples that Hindu pilgrims visit. It is one of the most visited Hindu temples. I heard people form Nepal making trip to this temple.

I was very disappointed as we could not collect samples ourselves and was with little hope that Mr. Pervaiz will collect samples and sent them to Trondheim. I had little hope because I had trouble in sending soil probes and temperature buttons to India. Specially, the Indian custom at Delhi asked very unnecessary questions and made delay in sending those items. Although the samples were sent via DHL, the service in India was very poor.

I have to call many times the DHL office in Norway about it. Once it was the situation when I say I am calling from Trodheim, the DHL personal recognize me.

We reached Katra, from where we have to start trip to VaishnoDevi temple. As we knew that there is helicopter service to temple, I tried but we could not get tickets for that. The seats use to be booked before 2-3 months. It was 14:00 at day time, we started our trip. On the way it rained heavily so, we have to stop for nearly half an hour. Banbarilal had already been that temple twice before. He told us that it will take 5 hours plus to reach the temple. I was wondering for Sharmila that she might not be able to walk for such long but she refused to take horse. There were horse services up to half way and if we are lucky, we could get tempo up to temple.  But, we could not get tempos too. We have to walk uphill for 5-6 hours however the walking trail was very beautiful, wide and easy to walk. On the way there are many cafes, rest rooms, toilets etc.

We reached VaishnoDevi temple at 19:30 PM and took bath and stand in queue for worship. As it was time for Arati, we have to stand longer in a queue. After three and half hours queue, we got opportunity to worship BaishnoDevi. The temple is situated at the juncture of the big mountains. However, there were many rest rooms for devotees, get blanket for free but have to deposit 100 Indian rupees and get refunded when they return blankets.

We were so, tired but we decided to walk back to Katra after worship because the area was so crowded with devotees. We could hardly find place to sleep and even if we find, it might be problematic to sleep because of crowd.

It was memorable way back. We had pain, muscles were swelling but we kept on walking until we reached Katra. We arrived Katra at 03:25 AM. Sharmila and I had muscle pain in our legs however, Banbarilal seems ok. Luckly we found two boys who could massage our legs. They provide massage for 20 Indian rupees for each with massage oils. We fell very relief after massage.

We slept in Jeep for nearly three hours, had tea and continued our journey. On the way we planned to visit Ramdev Baba's Ashram at Haridwar and Haridwar temple.

FIELD WORK IN KASHMIR, INDIA - PART IV: KATRA, JAMMU TO SRINAGAR, KASHMIR

We started our journey early in the morning at 04:00 AM on 7^th July 2011 for Kashmir. When we reached the checking point, there were already more than dozen vehicles in queue. The checking point opened at 04:30 AM and we are allowed to pass that point. We saw many vehicles with pilgrims as well as vehicles with Army personal. The area was in a high alert in terms of security because of high movement of Hindu pilgrims whereas the Kashmir area is dominated by Muslims. After passing hilly crawling roads, we reached TITANIC VIEW TOWER from where we saw the beautiful Kashmir valley.

We reached Kashmir University at around 13:15 where Prof. Reshi was waiting for us. Prof. Reshi is the head of the Department of Botany of the Kashmir University and has worked with the plant Impatiens glandulifera, the plant I am looking for. We went to the university and met Prof. Reshi. After short conversation, we went to the University Guest House where room for us was booked. We decided to meet at around 16:00 in the department. After having lunch at the canteen in the University, we went to the Guest house.

I came to the Department to meet Prof. Reshi. He was bit busy with meetings. I met Ass. Prof. Manzoor Ahmad Shah who is also working with invasive species. He is very interested with my research. At the mean time I met one of his PhD students who is working with invasive aquatic plants.

After sometime, Prof. Reshi called us and we went to his office. We had discussion about my research plan and he told that he will provide one assistant to guide us in the field. I want to the start field from tomorrow early in the morning so, Prof. Reshi called his student and told to join me tomorrow early in the morning. Prof. Reshi seems very helpful. I have not met him before but he helped me in booking guest house and finding populations of Impatiens glandulifera and many more.

Next day (08.07.2011), Mr. Pervaiz Ahmad Dar, student of Prof. Reshi came around 08:00 AM. We had tea together and left for field. Prof. Reshi suggested us to visit Gulmarg site where he saw many populations along the road side. We decided to visit same region as Prof. suggested.

On the way to Gulmarg, we were stopped before we start uphill to Gulmarg. One boy ran to our vehicle as told us to book a guide. He told us that, we have to pay 50 Indian Rupees for each of us and parking charge of the vehicle. He was speaking local language to Pervaiz and later pervaiz explained us that they guy was telling him to keep quite and he will get 50% of the money we pay to the boy but Pervaiz refused. Gulmarg is one of the most beautiful regions of Kashmir, which lies nearly 60 Km far from the Kashmir University. Unfortunately we don’t see very mature Impatiens glandulifera plants. Mr. Pervaiz described us about the area and it seems crowded with the tourists. After not seeing mature target plant, we decided to return back after lunch to Srinagar where we saw populations along the road side. Pervaiz suggested us to taste Kashmiri Yakhni for lunch. Later we found the food was so tasty.

On the way back to Srinagar, we saw many populations of Impatiens glandulifera along the highway but unfortunately, we could not go out to sample those populations because the region was high alert in terms of security and we saw large number of security personals along the road sides. It was very tough to collect samples and at the same time, local people use to follow us as they noticed outsiders.

It was very tough to go out and sample populations. We tried but failed. So, I decided to leave without sampling. At the evening, I had meeting with Prof. Reshi and Pervaiz and they agreed to sample after the Amarnath Jatra finishes. It is problematic also due to high flow of Hindu pilgrims during this season. Pervaiz told us that last year at the same time, Kashmir had six months curfew. As they agreed to sample for me, I described my plans and sampling techniques. They decided they can do it. I decided to leave Kashmir early in the morning with the great help of receiving samples from Kashmir.

FIELD WORK IN KASHMIR, INDIA - PART III: MAHENDRANAGAR TO KATRA, JAMMU

We prepared our luggage and ready for our trip to Kashmir. Banbarilal came on time. We kept all our luggage and started the journey at 06:45AM. It is an exciting journey because, firstly, this the longest journey I am making with a Jeep, secondly, Kashmir is one of the most beautiful city of India, thirdly, this is an area where India and Pakistan had war for nearly 10 years so, it is very sensitive.

After crossing Nepal-India boarder at 07:40 AM, Banbarilal stopped near by his house which was on the way. He came with a bag and kept in a Jeep and we continued the journey. On the way, Banbarilal use to shake hands to many people and say hi to them. He seems well known in the area. 
After 3 hours drive, we stopped in a motel for tea and light food.

Banbarilal is planning to reach Kashmir by the evening, the next day. So, he keep on driving the vehicle with full speed while we too were enjoying Indian music.

On the way, I noticed many liquor shops along the highway and advertisement for selling liquor. I came to know that only registered liquor shops (Theki) can sell liquor in India whereas, in Nepal every shops can sell.

 

After passing Haridwar, a famous Hindu pilgrimage place, we stopped for dinner at 20:00. After dinner, Banbarilal continued driving. He said, he will keep on driving until he realizes that he need to have rest. After passing Ambala city, he said he want to have short sleep. It was 01:00 AM at night. He went out from the jeep and slept in a bed (Khatiya) near by the road of a restaurant whereas, Sharmila and I slept in the Jeep. After nearly three hours, he continued driving.

After passing Luthiyana, we almost missed the highway and followed the highway to Simla. Later Banbarilal realized that we are following the wrong way, we asked to one of the driver and the driver said, we are following the wrong way. We have to turn back and drive almost 30 Km back. Finally we found the right highway. 

After 2 hours drive, Banbarilal realized he needs to have a rest for few minutes. Then he slept in a Jeep whereas, sharmila and I had tea and talked to people in a tea shop. After 35 minutes, Banbarilal woke up, had tea and we continued the trip.

At 13:25, we reached Pathanthok, near by Jammu. We still have to drive more than 350 Km to reach to Kashmir. We had lunch at a restaurant. The season was period of Amarnath Jatra – a famous hindu jatra. So, highway was crowded and the restaurants. At the same time, the foods available are only targeted for pilgrims. So, everywhere the foods taste same.

After driving about 30 Km, police stopped us on the way, they asked for us that whether it’s possible or not to drive their boss in our Jeep to Jammu? I discussed with Banbarilal and he said, ok. The boss came and sat in the front seat. He said he is a RTO (Road Transport Officer). We introduced each other. As we said, we are from Nepal but studying in Norway, he seems unknown about Norway. He said, is Norway near by UK? It was surprising for me because an officer does not know about the country Norway. I replied to him yes it is north to UK.

Banbarilal was worrying about the road permit and renewable of that permit. As he said, he is RTO, Banbarilal, seems little bit relaxed because an officer is sitting in his Jeep, so no one can check the Jeep on the way. We have to drive the officer to his home. His home was 20 minutes in from the Highway but the officer was so clever that he said, if we drive through his home, it will be shorter and we don’t need to face traffic jam. He drove him to his home and continued our journey to Kashmir. and leave for Kashmir. The officer on the way told that if there is any problem, we can call him. He gave us his mobile number and took our too. I had a mobile sim from Banbarilal but unfortunately the mobile sim registered outside Jammu and Kashmir did not work in Jammu and Kashmir. We had a problem in communicating people in Nepal and even in India.

After we reached KATRA, a small village on the way to Kashmir after Jammu, we got stopped by Indian police. They stopped almost all the vehicles and said that there is a jam on the way because of pilgrims. I talked to the policeman and their boss that we are not pilgrims, we are going to Kashmir University and that if for research purpose but they did not care. I called to the Prof. Z. A. Reshi at Kashmir Univeristy and RTO whom we meet earlier and they tried their best but the duty officer did not care about our problem. They said, they will leave vehicles early in the morning tomorrow but not today. I tried to talk to boss many times but he refused my request.

After few minutes, two policemen came near to me and asked the driver to start the vehicle. They forcefully sat in the Jeep and asked to start A/C. We feel very scared and were wondering whether they might loot us. Later they suggested us an alternative way if we want to go Kashmir. Some people told that it is not good to follow that road because it is through the jungle, the road is gravelled only and there is high risk of getting looted. But, Banbarilal said, we should try that route. He is the only one to whom we can have faith. We tried that route too but we got stopped. I decided to talk to police In-charge of Jammu but he also refused to help as and said as the vehicles are stopped because of high traffic jam and this is the order from high commissioner, he can do nothing.

We have to stop at Katra for one night. We looked for a Hotel and stayed for one night. This is the area where the famous Hindu ritual area, VaishnoDevi lies. We decided we will visit this temple on the way back.

FIELD WORK IN KASHMIR, INDIA - PART II: KATHMANDU - MAHENDRANAGAR

On 4^th July, we fly to Mahendranagar. The flight was at 12:10. When I talked to people about flight, they use to say, ….. the flight will not be on time so, need to wait longer at the airport. We reached airport one hour before the departure time, completed boarding on time and waited for the flight. While roaming round in the waiting hall, I met one senior, Mr. ……Bhujel (I don’t remember the first name) who is an officer at department of education, Ministry of Education, Government of Nepal. I met Mr. Bhujel about after 8 years. I first met him in Kirtipur while I was studying master’s degree in 2003. One of my uncles who was also preparing Lok Sewa (public service commission) exam, introduced me with Mr. Bhujel. At that time, they were 4 people preparing for the exam. My uncle was living with me in my room. After all of them successfully passing exam, I had a grand party with them in their room. Mr. Bhujel told me that he is also flying to Dhangadi where his team are going to organize district level training for high school teachers.

After about one and half hours flight, we landed at Dhangadi airport, Dhangadi. This was my first time to western Nepal. The temperature outside was about 34⁰C and we were completely sweating. Within a short time we reached 34⁰C from 17⁰C (temperature in Trondheim when we were leaving for Nepal). 

We have to go to Mahendranagar where sharmila’s one of the uncle, Mr. Dharma Banjara working. We talked over phone and are going to live with him in his flat. He is working as a branch manager at Nabil Bank, Mahendranagar branch. Accorind to plan, a Jeep from uncle’s office is supposed to drive us from airport to Mahendranagar. We have to wait at the airport until the vehicle arrives and the driver said, it will take one more hour for him to reach airport. Mr. Bhujel and his team left after the vehicle from district education office came to pick up them while I have to wait for ours. At the mean time, I remembered one of my friends during my stay in Kirtipur, Mr. Raju Ojha. He is originally from Dhangadi. I had his mobile number and called him. Luckily he was near by airport and we met.

We talked about ourselves and other things. He told me that one of my colleagues during masters at TU, Mr. KR Bhattarai is now at District Plant Resource Office (Jilla Banaspati Karyalaya). He is an officer at department of plant resources.

After having tea and talking couple of things, the Jeep to Mahendranagar arrived. We left for Mahendranagar. It is about 45 minutes drive from Dhangadi airport to Mahendranagar. One of the bank staff was also in the Jeep. They came to Dhangadi to deposit money from branch office to central bank (Rastra Bank) office in Dhangadi. According to them, they use to come twice a week for such deposit.

We reached uncle’s office at about 15:30. Uncle and aunty were waiting us outside the bank. They were so excited to see us. 

After banking hours, we had short tour to city. At the same time I have to buy ticket to Jammu, India. I was looking for ticket in a train which I could not book from Trondheim. Uncle called many people whom he knew and are booking tickets in Indian rails but all went vain after I knew that all the seats are full even there is a long queue of Tatkal (emergency) ticket.

The locals instead suggested us to hire a Jeep. The driving distance from Mahendranagar to Kashmir is more than 1000 Km. So, I was wondering about hiring a Jeep and the time it might take. At the same time, I have to find a driver who is very honest and good in driving because I have to bring back samples after field work and the Indian authority might create problem to bring those samples. So, I have to find an Indian driver who is honest, good in driving such that Indian authority will not create problem on us.

The locals suggested us a driver Banbarilal, who is originally from Banbasa, a small village near by Nepal boarder, has a good contact with locals in Mahendranagar, drives a Jeep owned by Nepali and has an Indian number plate. He is very fluent in Nepal also. I talked with the driver and he agreed to drive us to Kashmir and at the same time the price was affordable.

So, we decided to leave for Kashmir tomorrow at 6:00 AM because the Nepal-India boarder opens twice a day: from 07:00 to 11:00 AM and from 18:00 to 19:00 PM. So, we have to cross boarder after 07:00AM.

FIELD WORK IN KASHMIR, INDIA - PART I: TRONDHEIM - KATHMANDU

We (Sharmila and I) left Trondhiem at 11:10 AM on 1^st July 2011. Sharmila was so excited to meet her family after one year in abroad. The route of our flight was: Trondheim – Stockholm – Doha – Kathmandu. I chose this route because this is one of the best route after Qatar airways started its flight from Stockholm. We had nearly 4 hours transit in Stockhom and one hour 45 minutes in Doha. Because of delay of flight from Stockholm to Doha, we had shorter transit in Doha. In spite of that, we managed to catch the flight for Nepal. We planned to buy things at Doha airport but could not. After nearly four and half hours flight, we safely landed Kathmandu at 08:30 AM. After we came out from the airport bus, we met Amuna, sister of Sharmila’s friend at the airport. She is working at Jet Airways. It took nearly one hour to complete all the custom procedures and we came out at 09:30 AM. Sharmila’s brother and few others were already at the airport waiting for us. We reached Sharmila’s home at nearly 11:00 AM. It was a long journey so, we were tired but I have to go to Dehaurali Travels, Sundhara to collect ticket for Dhangadi. This is because; I had an agreement with Balaram ji who is working at Dehaurali Travels that I will collect ticket by 14:00 on 2^nd July. I made this agreement from Trondheim over phone. If I did not pick up ticket by that time, the ticket will be cancelled. I reached on time and collected the ticket but unfortunately, I could not meet Balaram bhai who was in Chitwan since three days for a trip. According to the schedule, we have to leave for Dhangadi on 4^th of July 2011. 

The next day, I was out to Kathmandu for buying things for a trip to Kashmir.