FIELD WORK IN KASHMIR, INDIA - PART III: MAHENDRANAGAR TO KATRA, JAMMU

We prepared our luggage and ready for our trip to Kashmir. Banbarilal came on time. We kept all our luggage and started the journey at 06:45AM. It is an exciting journey because, firstly, this the longest journey I am making with a Jeep, secondly, Kashmir is one of the most beautiful city of India, thirdly, this is an area where India and Pakistan had war for nearly 10 years so, it is very sensitive.
After crossing Nepal-India boarder at 07:40 AM, Banbarilal stopped near by his house which was on the way. He came with a bag and kept in a Jeep and we continued the journey. On the way, Banbarilal use to shake hands to many people and say hi to them. He seems well known in the area. 
After 3 hours drive, we stopped in a motel for tea and light food.
Banbarilal is planning to reach Kashmir by the evening, the next day. So, he keep on driving the vehicle with full speed while we too were enjoying Indian music.
On the way, I noticed many liquor shops along the highway and advertisement for selling liquor. I came to know that only registered liquor shops (Theki) can sell liquor in India whereas, in Nepal every shops can sell.
After passing Haridwar, a famous Hindu pilgrimage place, we stopped for dinner at 20:00. After dinner, Banbarilal continued driving. He said, he will keep on driving until he realizes that he need to have rest. After passing Ambala city, he said he want to have short sleep. It was 01:00 AM at night. He went out from the jeep and slept in a bed (Khatiya) near by the road of a restaurant whereas, Sharmila and I slept in the Jeep. After nearly three hours, he continued driving.
After passing Luthiyana, we almost missed the highway and followed the highway to Simla. Later Banbarilal realized that we are following the wrong way, we asked to one of the driver and the driver said, we are following the wrong way. We have to turn back and drive almost 30 Km back. Finally we found the right highway. 
After 2 hours drive, Banbarilal realized he needs to have a rest for few minutes. Then he slept in a Jeep whereas, sharmila and I had tea and talked to people in a tea shop. After 35 minutes, Banbarilal woke up, had tea and we continued the trip.
At 13:25, we reached Pathanthok, near by Jammu. We still have to drive more than 350 Km to reach to Kashmir. We had lunch at a restaurant. The season was period of Amarnath Jatra – a famous hindu jatra. So, highway was crowded and the restaurants. At the same time, the foods available are only targeted for pilgrims. So, everywhere the foods taste same.
After driving about 30 Km, police stopped us on the way, they asked for us that whether it’s possible or not to drive their boss in our Jeep to Jammu? I discussed with Banbarilal and he said, ok. The boss came and sat in the front seat. He said he is a RTO (Road Transport Officer). We introduced each other. As we said, we are from Nepal but studying in Norway, he seems unknown about Norway. He said, is Norway near by UK? It was surprising for me because an officer does not know about the country Norway. I replied to him yes it is north to UK.
Banbarilal was worrying about the road permit and renewable of that permit. As he said, he is RTO, Banbarilal, seems little bit relaxed because an officer is sitting in his Jeep, so no one can check the Jeep on the way. We have to drive the officer to his home. His home was 20 minutes in from the Highway but the officer was so clever that he said, if we drive through his home, it will be shorter and we don’t need to face traffic jam. He drove him to his home and continued our journey to Kashmir. and leave for Kashmir. The officer on the way told that if there is any problem, we can call him. He gave us his mobile number and took our too. I had a mobile sim from Banbarilal but unfortunately the mobile sim registered outside Jammu and Kashmir did not work in Jammu and Kashmir. We had a problem in communicating people in Nepal and even in India.
After we reached KATRA, a small village on the way to Kashmir after Jammu, we got stopped by Indian police. They stopped almost all the vehicles and said that there is a jam on the way because of pilgrims. I talked to the policeman and their boss that we are not pilgrims, we are going to Kashmir University and that if for research purpose but they did not care. I called to the Prof. Z. A. Reshi at Kashmir Univeristy and RTO whom we meet earlier and they tried their best but the duty officer did not care about our problem. They said, they will leave vehicles early in the morning tomorrow but not today. I tried to talk to boss many times but he refused my request.
After few minutes, two policemen came near to me and asked the driver to start the vehicle. They forcefully sat in the Jeep and asked to start A/C. We feel very scared and were wondering whether they might loot us. Later they suggested us an alternative way if we want to go Kashmir. Some people told that it is not good to follow that road because it is through the jungle, the road is gravelled only and there is high risk of getting looted. But, Banbarilal said, we should try that route. He is the only one to whom we can have faith. We tried that route too but we got stopped. I decided to talk to police In-charge of Jammu but he also refused to help as and said as the vehicles are stopped because of high traffic jam and this is the order from high commissioner, he can do nothing.
We have to stop at Katra for one night. We looked for a Hotel and stayed for one night. This is the area where the famous Hindu ritual area, VaishnoDevi lies. We decided we will visit this temple on the way back.

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